Maria Grazia Chiuri Infuses Dior’s Legacy With Literary Drama for Dior FW25
March 5, 2025 – Paris Fashion Week- Dior FW25 RTW
Maria Grazia Chiuri transformed the Tuileries into a theatrical dreamscape for Dior’s Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection, where Virginia Woolf’s Orlando met the Maison’s storied codes. Staged within a modernist theater designed by Robert Wilson, the show unfolded like a five-act play, balancing historical drama with contemporary savoir-faire.
A Theatrical Beginning
The opening was stark and deliberate: models moved at a solemn pace in courtier’s jackets, britches, elongated redingotes, and sculpted sheaths. Laced with intricate detailing echoing the ornate precision of Gianfranco Ferré’s era at Dior. Chiuri, always one to explore fashion’s relationship with gender, reinterpreted Ferré’s signature white shirt into crisp, androgynous silhouettes—an homage to Orlando’s fluid journey through time and identity.
Paris Fashion Week- Dior FW25 RTW
Galliano’s Influence Takes Shape
From officer’s jackets with military frogging to mini gilet corsets and voluminous capes, the collection moved through centuries. It built toward a striking fusion of Dior’s archival structure with Galliano’s historical flourishes. Frilled bloomers, ruffled trains, and sculptural outerwear carried a sense of grandeur. Meanwhile, hip-slung trench coats and reworked parkas hinted at Galliano’s love for theatrical opulence.
Chiuri’s execution is precise, confident, and deeply referential. A Grenadier Guards red jacket worn with a ruffled white shirt played with military formality. Meanwhile, tailored black coats echoed an 18th-century officer’s silhouette—reimagined for a modern wardrobe.
Paris Fashion Week- Dior FW25 RTW
The Finale and Its Meaning
The show reached its peak as models gathered on Robert Wilson’s starkly illuminated stage. Their formation created a living tableau, blurring the line between runway and performance art. Above them, a mechanical bird soared—a nod to Orlando’s closing passage, where time, identity, and transformation collide.
Speculation swirled around Maria Grazia Chiuri’s future at Dior, making Orlando a fitting metaphor for her tenure. She has reinterpreted Dior’s archives, always through a feminist lens, reshaping its silhouettes with historical references. When asked about the collection’s significance, reflected “Fashion is a performance. It allows us to work with other creative disciplines, making everything more stimulating. And ultimately, it’s about expressing the passage of time.”
Paris Fashion Week- Dior FW25 RTW
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