KIM JONES’ FIFTH ANNIVERSARY AT DIOR PROVED TO BE A TRIUMPH OF ELEGANCE AND MODERNITY. HIS SS24 COLLECTION SHOWCASED HIS UNIQUE VISION AND ABILITY TO PERFECTLY MERGE FASHION AND ENTERTAINMENT.
A PIONEER OF THE “FASHION ENTERTAINMENT” MOVEMENT, KIM JONES LEAVES AN INDELIBLE MARK ON THE INDUSTRY, CONSOLIDATING HIS POSITION AS ONE OF THE MOST INFLUENTIAL DESIGNERS OF OUR TIME.
Five years ago, the British designer, Kim Jones, made the bold move from Louis Vuitton to take over the menswear collections at Dior. Since then, he has revolutionized the world of men’s fashion and played a significant role in shaping the landscape of the industry. In fact, it was Jones who suggested Virgil Abloh as a potential successor to his former position, leading to a wave of change in menswear.
Jones, for his ability to seamlessly fuse fashion and entertainment, first showcased this talent during his time at Louis Vuitton, where he collaborated with the skate brand Supreme in 2017. Since joining Dior, he has continued to push boundaries with collaborations with artists like Travis Scott and Shawn Stussy, as well as extravagant shows like the one held in front of the Pyramids in December 2022.
For this Dior Spring/Summer 24 collection, Jones presented a new vision at the École Militaire in central Paris. The show opened with an explosion of electronic sounds and, as the catwalk lit up, the models emerged from a metallic runway, immediately seducing the audience. They paraded in textured suits with an androgynous aesthetic, adorned with pearls and sequins. Gray, ivory, and pastels dominated the color palette, with vibrant neon pink and yellow accessories adding pops of color.
Attention to detail and delicate embellishments were the hallmarks of Kim Jones’ Spring/Summer 2024 collection. From the exquisite flashes of jade on lime-green cashmere cardigans to the scattered sequins adorning traditional striped shirts and cascading beads on textured pink cotton knits, every piece exuded elegance and craftsmanship. Trench coats, reminiscent of Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic silhouettes, stole the show, complemented by psychedelic striped wool hats by collaborator Stephen Jones, who skillfully challenged the Dior atelier by pushing the boundaries with these ornamental elements.
Inspired by influential predecessors, particularly in the women’s department, Kim Jones masterfully blended his own vision into the collection. Noteworthy was a poetic new suit featuring wide, cropped pants paired with a cane-patterned blazer or a double-breasted jacket adorned with a patch pocket. The materials used, such as curly wool and tweed, evoked a Chanel-esque vibe rather than the traditional associations with Dior, while the inclusion of Dior’s favored model, Baptiste Giabiconi, added to the reminiscent atmosphere. Draped double-breasted coats, suits, tunics, voluminous shorts, and handbags, all embellished with Dior’s signature cane motif, exemplified the range of the collection. Additionally, Jones designed a dozen pairs of platform loafers and creepers, ensuring the models maintained their balance with style on the runway.
Front-row seats were filled with a star-studded audience, including fashion model Winnie Harlow, actress Demi Moore, singer Cha Eun-woo, and “Game of Thrones” actress Gwendoline Christie. Delphine Arnault, the chief executive of Dior’s parent company LVMH, sat next to her father, Bernard Arnault, the chairman, and CEO of LVMH, reinforcing the brand’s esteemed status.
The presence of renowned designers like Stefano Pilati, Jeremy Scott, Chitose Abe, and Pharrell Williams in the front row emphasized the industry’s recognition of Jones’ talent. This departure from Karl Lagerfeld’s strict rule of not inviting other designers to shows is a testament to the inclusivity and collaborative spirit of the new generation of fashion. The presence of Asian pop stars also delighted thousands of fans outside the venue.
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