JIL SANDER AND ETRO EMBRACE DIFFERENT FACETS OF MILANESE ELEGANCE FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2025. JIL SANDER SPEAKS TO A SOPHISTICATED AUSTERITY THAT GENTLY UNFOLDS INTO SOFTNESS, WHILE ETRO BRINGS A SPIRITED, YOUTHFUL ENERGY THAT RADIATES WARMTH AND OPTIMISM.
In the heart of Milan Fashion Week, Jil Sander and Etro captured the essence of Milanese elegance, balancing restraint with a touch of glamour. Both houses presented collections that reflect the nuanced style of the Milanese woman—discreet yet sophisticated, with just a hint of daring.
JIL SANDER: RIGOROUS SOPHISTICATION WITH A POETIC TWIST
Jil Sander’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection opens with a study in austere elegance. Anthracite coats, resembling oversized masculine blazers, set the tone alongside severe grey and burgundy suits. The monochromatic ensembles, complete with matching shirts and ties, evoke a sense of precision. Yet, there’s an element of intrigue woven into this discipline: long fringes draping from the cuffs and spherical earrings that hint at an oriental influence. These unexpected details disrupt the collection’s rigidity, adding a whisper of softness to the otherwise structured silhouette.
As the collection progresses, it evolves into a more delicate and poetic wardrobe. Pastel hues and gentle wave-like collars replace the sternness of the opening looks. Cozy knit sets, adorned with appliqué flowers, 3D embroidery, and printed floral patches, bring a lightness to the collection. This shift from the masculine to the feminine, from the austere to the tender, encapsulates the duality of the modern Milanese aesthetic. Among the guests, the presence of artist Marina Abramovic added a layer of artistic gravitas to the presentation, highlighting the collection’s exploration of the boundary between discipline and beauty.
Jil Sander’s Spring/Summer 2025
ETRO: A BURST OF MEDITERRANEAN OPTIMISM
Etro takes the Milanese woman on a journey to the tropics, infusing the collection with youthful exuberance and Mediterranean warmth. Exotic foliage, flowers, and swirling motifs breathe life into the lineup of maxi skirts and dresses, which feature open backs and flared corolla shapes. The pieces are designed to be in perpetual motion, achieved through skillful use of ruffles and flowing fabrics.
Creative Director Marco De Vincenzo, redefining the brand’s image, steers Etro away from its traditionally bourgeois reputation toward a more vibrant, sunny ethos. His Sicilian roots inject the collection with a baroque sense of optimism, where maximalism reigns. Printed jerseys, brocade fabrics, lace, velvet, jacquard knits, and sequins create a rich tapestry that is both festive and effortlessly wearable.
The collection embraces a carefree, joyful spirit. Vibrant beach towel-inspired squares are tied around the waist as pareos, paired with cropped tops, minimalist knits, or loose cardigans. An electric blue jacquard coat, adorned with white flowers, is casually thrown over a matching swimsuit, while a silk brocade jacket tops denim bermudas. Short wrap skirts, fully embroidered with sequins, feature generous slits and are matched with jackets in similar hues and textures.
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