Corsets and Nautical Fantasies: Jean-Paul Gaultier by Ludovic de Saint-Sernin
January 30, 2025- Paris Couture Week, Jean-Paul Gautier by Ludovic de Saint-Sernin
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To be invited as a guest designer at Jean-Paul Gaultier’s couture house is to inherit a legacy steeped in brilliance. This season, Ludovic de Saint-Sernin took the stage, wielding his signature provocations to honor Gaultier’s transgressive spirit. What emerged was a daring, sensual, and magnetic collection, transcending couture while paying homage to the house’s iconic codes.
From the very first look—a rebellious mermaid corset dress—to the finale’s sculptural bodysuit paired with towering centurion boots, Ludovic’s mastery was evident. Corsetry, a hallmark of Gaultier’s oeuvre, was elevated with contemporary audacity. The crocheted bra piece evoked the rugged romance of maritime adventures, while another dazzled with a lace galleon hat—a playful nod to Gaultier’s iconic nautical influences.
Mythical and Mesmerizing
The show unfolded in Gaultier’s opulent early 20th-century mansion, a fitting backdrop for such grand yet intimate designs. Applause filled the air as each look graced the runway, with models commanding attention like characters in an elaborate narrative.
One of the most arresting moments came with an interpretation of Icarus: a model draped in a cobalt-blue sarong and adorned with intricately crafted feathered wings by Maison Février. The look was both ethereal and powerful, evoking a mythical hero caught between triumph and tragedy.
Elsewhere, a diaphanous lace gown seemed to float, held together by nothing more than a delicate fabric anchor. A minimalist approach that amplified its sensuality. The house’s unmatched savoir-faire shone in a crocodile-inspired ensemble: a suit of exotic armor with a sharp, chevalière silhouette. Equally captivating was a sleek gown in metallic gray reptile skin that shimmered like liquid metal, embodying both strength and elegance.
A Triumph for Ludovic
Ludovic de Saint-Sernin himself took a triumphant final walk, embracing Jean-Paul Gaultier with a reverence that spoke volumes. Titled “Le Naufrage” (The Shipwreck), the collection was anything but a disaster. Models strutted the runway with wet, seaweed-like hair, amplifying the aquatic theme and crafting a cohesive, dramatic vision.
To take on the mantle of Gaultier is to walk a fine line between reverence and innovation. Ludovic de Saint-Sernin did so with astonishing ease. Among the house’s celebrated guest designers, he stands tall, delivering a collection that felt like a love letter to couture itself.
With this show, Ludovic proved his ability to rise to the occasion. It was a masterstroke, deserving of the resounding applause it received.
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