A Dark, Atmospheric Runway Inspired by Miles Davis and Jazz-Infused Menswear
January 6, 2025 – MM6 Maison Margiela at Pitti Uomo
As the special guest of Pitti Uomo 107, MM6 Maison Margiela stole the spotlight on Wednesday night with a powerful showcase of its Menswear Collection. The Parisian label, owned by Italian fashion group OTB, transformed Florence’s grand Liberty-style Tepidarium Giacomo Roster into a dark, atmospheric setting reminiscent of a shadowy street or an abandoned warehouse. This moody backdrop set the stage for a melancholic yet suggestive nighttime journey.
The show began in near darkness, with models emerging like silhouettes, embodying the aura of misunderstood poets or cursed rockstars. Hidden behind oversized visor sunglasses and with ties styled as thin scarves around their necks. The models walked under stark white spotlights, revealing a predominantly black collection. This choice echoed Maison Margiela’s iconic 2006 Pitti Uomo performance, where the brand showcased a collection entirely in white.
Occasionally, red and green spotlights illuminated the silhouettes, creating unexpected and dramatic effects. Meanwhile, vibrant bursts of color punctuated the otherwise subdued collection. These included a shimmering turquoise lurex suit, worn directly on bare skin, and another ensemble with iridescent red and blue tones.
The Fall/Winter 2025-26 wardrobe seemed crafted for a life under the spotlight. This was evident in details like a black denim jacket paired with matching trousers. Metallic buttons and faded effects mimicked beams of light, adding depth to the pieces.
Additionally, sweaters featured shimmering textures, thanks to intricate lurex threading. A three-piece velvet suit, worn without a shirt, sparkled with tiny star prints, exuding bold sophistication. For a more experimental touch, a classic Pitti Uomo linen jacket was reimagined in shiny faux leather. This innovative design showcased the brand’s daring approach to menswear.
Inspired by Miles Davis and Jazz Cool
The collection drew inspiration from an iconic photograph of jazz legend Miles Davis, clad in a fur coat, oversized sunglasses, and smoking a cigarette. This image served as a guiding thread for the collection, infusing it with an energetic and sensual jazz-inspired spirit. “Jazz has a visceral connection to fashion; it’s effortlessly cool,” explains a Designer from MM6’s creative team. “Miles Davis is a style icon, and we wanted to channel his aura into this collection.”
The result was a lineup of around 30 rock-couture silhouettes, glamorous yet minimalistic. The creative team viewed Pitti Uomo as an opportunity to refine their menswear offering. “This collection reflects the attitude, concepts, and creative processes of MM6. this collection is designed to emphasize the wearer’s identity,” adds the Designer. Suits, trench coats, Mackintosh coats, biker jackets, and classic menswear staples were reinterpreted in unconventional materials like vinyl, suede, and “Papier-Mâché”-effect leather.
Details Define the MM6 Man
Accessories took center stage in defining the collection’s distinctive attitude. The square-toe shoes, available as lace-ups or biker boots, brought a sharp and edgy vibe to the lineup. Reversible faux fur jackets, on the other hand, offered versatility, effortlessly transforming into practical nylon bombers. This balance of functionality and flair exemplified MM6 Maison Margiela’s thoughtful approach to design.
The collection also included modular leather gloves, designed in collaboration with Agnelle. These gloves combined a driving glove on one side with a zippered cuff on the other. The sleek weekend bag shaped like a trumpet case is another standout piece. This accessory, designed with practicality and elegance, featured horizontal handles and an option for vertical carrying.
MM6 Maison Margiela introduced its menswear line just three years ago. Since then, it has grown to account for a third of the brand’s total sales. Despite the absence of traditional advertising or communication campaigns, the line has expanded steadily. Today, it competes with high-profile brands such as Acne Studios, Miu Miu, and Loewe.
Currently, MM6 is available in over 600 multi-brand retailers worldwide. It also boasts 23 standalone stores, including 11 in Japan, three in Europe, and several across Greater China.
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