INSPIRED BY THE MOST FAMOUS TALE WRITTEN BY ANTOINE DE SAINT-EXUPÉRY, THOM BROWNE WANTED TO TELL A BEAUTIFUL STORY THROUGH SIXTY LOOKS
A philosophical and survivalist sophistication at Thom Browne! For his first show after his appointment as head of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, The Thom Browne Ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2023 show was set on a white biplane stranded in a grey sandy desert. The plane had crashed inside The Shed, the gigantic exhibition space in New York’s Hudson Yards neighborhood, lit by white paper suns, moons, and stars.
Its aristocratic-looking passengers, greeted by a half-dozen aliens, were dressed in off-the-shoulder tunic dresses and sphere-shaped hats. Houston, we have a problem.
Thom Browne encircled this artificial desert to make a giant clock face, symbolizing the march of time. Clocks were the leitmotif of the collection, appearing on the side of handbags and tote bags, or on the heels of a range of mules.
But the main motif of this Fall/Winter 2023 mixed collection was deconstruction. Like the adventure film Flight of the Phoenix, where a group of explorers reassembles pieces of their crashed plane to complete their flight to Benghazi.
Like a vast assemblage of all the favorite elements of his DNA – little boy flannel suits, cricket blazers, curly wool coats, red and blue stripes, striped ties, banker stripes, and pleated skirts – into a dozen wild silhouettes. As one viewer said, “Thom Galliano.
Thom Browne- RTW AW23
View the full runway show here
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