Designer Daniel Roseberry opens the show with a scalpel-cut black velvet blazer embroidered with clusters of black grapes inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s original archives, even though behind it is revealed a pretty champagne-colored corset, a bit perverse.
Naughty chic in spades, with lots of nipples, real or metallic, visible throughout: displayed over black crepe corsets, ultra-decollete dresses or transparent Chantilly lace bras.
But the heart of the matter is accessories and embroidery, as the Schiaparelli atelier attached metal wheat ears, sculpted ears, pale green beads forming bunches of grapes or surrealist crosses, to pieces cut with epaulets.
From the first look, it felt like an authentic Parisian haute couture show. The extreme ornamentation of the ensembles, the fantastic details, the ultra-sophistication: Daniel Roseberry mastered the art of draping to perfection, from these bulbous skirts in pale green satin to these wasp-waisted dresses trimmed with bouillonné.
The show ended in a grand finale, with hand-painted 3D tulips, purple stones and metallic flowers bursting out of strapless black velvet dresses and lilac satin corsets.
Presented on an all-black runway, with soundtracks from 1990’s movies – from Jurassic Park to Star Wars – as a soundtrack, adding to the atmosphere that was as grand as it was spiritual.