Schiaparelli’s “ICARUS”: Where History, Myth, and Extravagance Take Flight
January 27, 2025 – Paris Couture Week Spring 2025, Schiaparelli “ICARUS” Collection
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The gilded halls of the Petit Palais shimmered in anticipation as Maison Schiaparelli opened Paris Couture Week with a show that felt like an ode to time itself. Daniel Roseberry, the Artistic Director of the historic Maison, titled his Spring 2025 collection ICARUS—a nod to the mythical Icarus, a figure who dared to defy boundaries and soar close to the sun. True to its name, the collection reached dazzling heights, fusing history and fantasy in a bold celebration of haute couture’s extravagant roots.
Roseberry, known for his boundary-pushing vision, found his muse in an unexpected place: a collection of 1920s and 1930s ribbons tucked away in an antique shop. These relics of the past, faded yet exquisite, sparked a journey through the annals of couture history. His explorations led him to the works of Madame Grès and Charles Frederick Worth—masters of opulent craftsmanship—and their pursuit of perfection became a cornerstone of this collection.
“Can’t the new also be worked, be baroque, be extravagant?” Roseberry posed in his show notes, challenging modern fashion’s obsession with simplicity. His rhetorical manifesto questioned the limits of contemporary style and celebrated maximalism as a form of resistance.
A Time-Traveling Vision
The runway itself became a time machine. Corseted mannequins, including Kendall Jenner, glided beneath the ornate ceilings of the Petit Palais, their silhouettes a dramatic interplay of rigid décolletés and exaggerated hips. The influence of historical couture was evident in every detail: intricate drapery, delicate embroidery, and the use of the antique ribbons that inspired the collection. Yet Roseberry’s vision was far from retrograde. These designs—some adorned with surrealist touches like Schiaparelli’s iconic gold accents—felt as forward-thinking as they were reverent.
The collection also revisited some of Elsa Schiaparelli’s most iconic surrealist motifs. The miniaudière shaped like her monogrammed cigarette case, exemplified Roseberry’s ability to bridge past and present with an imaginative twist.
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A Maximalist Rebellion
In a world captivated by minimalist “quiet luxury,” Roseberry’s Schiaparelli thrives on indulgence and imagination. The ICARUS collection offered a stark contrast to the streamlined silhouettes dominating contemporary fashion. Instead, Roseberry embraced complexity: jacquard coats with embroidery, monumental skirts that seemed to defy gravity, and evening gowns adorned with cascading silk ribbons.
The finale, a sculptural gown with wings of molten gold, served as a visual metaphor for the myth of Icarus. It was an invitation to dream, to push boundaries, and to celebrate the artistry at the heart of haute couture.
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The Legacy of Schiaparelli
Since taking the helm in 2019, Roseberry has been a steward of Elsa Schiaparelli’s surrealist legacy, infusing each collection with her spirit while carving out a space for his own ideas. The Spring 2025 collection reaffirmed his role as a provocateur in the fashion world—someone unafraid to challenge conventions and reimagine the possibilities of couture.
With 28 maisons set to showcase their creations this week, Schiaparelli’s ICARUS set the bar high. Roseberry’s celebration of history, beauty, and unapologetic maximalism reminded us why couture remains the pinnacle of fashion: it’s where art and craft collide, untethered by time or practicality.
As the audience rose to applaud, the echoes of Schiaparelli’s motto, “Shocking elegance,” seemed to linger in the air. In ICARUS, Roseberry proved that “Haute Couture“, in all its extravagant glory, is timeless.
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