Pierpaolo Piccioli, the genius behind Valentino‘s unmatched elegance, has done it again. In a daring move, the fashion house has taken the quintessential symbol of masculine power and turned it on its head. The black tie is no longer just a token of formality – it has been reinvented as a statement of rebellious chic.
Piccioli’s latest haute couture collection debuted in January with a black tie, and his latest Fall/Winter 2023 ready-to-wear collection builds on that theme. The runway show took place at the opulent mansion of Salomon de Rothschild, setting the stage for a parade of edgy looks that mix masculine and feminine elements.
Models strutted down the runway in suits paired with high-necked shirts and ties, studded ankle boots, and handbags. Little black dresses were given a twist with backless cuts and shirt collars, while tutus were paired with white collars and black ties. A chasuble dress, reminiscent of a school uniform, was transformed into an elegant evening dress.
The show wasn’t just for the ladies. Gentlemen walked the runway in blazers with remarkable proportions, including smooth leather, silver sequins, and green cowhide leather. Black-and-white zig-zag capes added a touch of drama, while checkered coats and long leather overcoats made a strong statement.
Piccioli’s daughter Stella has been a source of inspiration for him, as she has borrowed his clothes and accessories over the years. “About three years ago, my daughter Stella started borrowing my clothes, hoodies, and t-shirts. And suddenly, she turned to shirts and ties. Not because she was looking to be stylish, but simply because it was new. Ties are relatively new to her, as she has never really seen me wearing one myself!”
After the show, fans clamored for photos with Piccioli, who spoke passionately about his desire to break the rules. “The tie is the symbol of the power of white men. By giving it to everyone, we empty it of its meaning and we give priority to personal choice,” he explained.
Valentino’s fall/winter 2023 collection is a celebration of rebellion and individuality. By breaking the codes of traditional fashion, Piccioli has created a collection that is both timeless and modern. The black tie may never be the same again.