Inspired by the striking beauty of the German-American actress Marlene Dietrich, David Koma Fall 2023 Ready-to-wear collection incorporated design cues from the 1930s and the 1960s, and were twisted to fit his idea of the modern woman’s wardrobe.
Sultry shades of red were a key feature of the show, along with some technical feats from Koma, including the use of leather brushed with nail polish. This innovative material was available in bra tops, gloves, bracelets, and short chainmail dresses, often embellished with silver metal rosettes taking a couture approach to ready-to-wear even further.
Like Dietrich, the woman David Koma is a smoker: three models walked the catwalk with a cigarette in their mouths. But without smoke, in Marlboro butts dipped in resin, scattered on decorative beads and superimposed chains.
“Smoking was considered vulgar in the 1930s, especially for women, so I wanted to pay tribute to that,” Koma said.
David Koma RTW FW2023
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