Paris Fashion Week Ready-to-Wear Fall/Winter 2023 has shown that creativity and innovation are thriving in the fashion industry with designers pushing the boundaries of fashion and reinventing classic styles. This Fashion Week season brought, indeed, unique energy and romance to the runway.
Louis Vuitton’s latest collection, as envisioned by Nicolas Ghesquière, was a bold and urban take on luxury. The designer presented his collection in the grandeur of the Musée d’Orsay, a former train station, and used the space to create a unique experience that reflected the collection’s theme of surviving in style in the urban jungle.
The collection featured a dark palette that contrasted sharply with the gold and silver worn by influencers who had gathered to photograph themselves before the show. The runway was an all-black version of a cobbled Parisian street, with sound illusions that evoked the hustle and bustle of rush hour in the city. The models marched quickly through the space, looking busy and focused on an unknown destination.
The collection itself marked a departure for Ghesquière, with a more minimalist and streamlined approach that emphasized functionality and comfort. The designer incorporated streetwear elements into the collection, such as oversized jackets and cargo pants, and paired them with luxury items like leather boots and handbags. The collection also featured bold prints and patterns, such as leopard and zebra stripes, that added a touch of wildness to the urban theme.
After the show, Vuitton’s “Very VIP” customers posed for photos under the technical structures, dressed in their finest LV clothes. The scene was ironic, as they were trying to emulate the influencers who get the same items for free. Nevertheless, the collection was a hit with both fashion insiders and customers, showcasing Ghesquière’s ability to push boundaries while staying true to the brand’s heritage of luxury and craftsmanship.
Stella McCartney’s Rider collection was a celebration of the equestrian world, with the designer putting the horse at the center of the stage. Models walked alongside seven magnificent Spanish horses, guided with gentleness and complicity by Jean-François Pignon.
The collection featured garments cut in tweeds and tartans with large checks, with a look that was both sober and relaxed. McCartney, a longtime advocate of ethical and sustainable fashion, left aside the classic equestrian outfits and instead highlighted the animal more. Horses reared up on jacquard sweaters, jersey dresses, t-shirts, and skirts, and its mouth served as a crest or was printed in XXL format on maxi polo shirts worn as minidresses.
The collection also featured lined coats and jackets, as well as cozy worsted wool pieces that reproduced the spotted white coat of certain horses. McCartney showcased her commitment to sustainable fashion by producing some garments in alternative materials to leather, created from mushrooms, apples, grapes of wine, and more.
Dundas’ collection also pays tribute to the sailor’s wife, who remained ashore, waiting for her husband to come back from the sea. The designer presents a range of romantic dresses, with ruffles and lace, in soft shades of pink and blue. These pieces are perfect for a dinner by the sea or a date night in a cozy port town.
The collection is also marked by Dundas’ signature rock ‘n’ roll touch. Leather mini-skirts and trousers are paired with long coats or chiffon blouses, creating a bold yet feminine look. A black leather jumpsuit, adorned with gold chains and zippers, is a standout piece that exudes confidence and power.
As the show comes to a close, Dundas takes his final bow, surrounded by his models in their navy-inspired outfits. The collection successfully blends the maritime tradition with modern fashion, creating a unique and timeless style that is sure to turn heads in any port city or fashion capital. The Sailor Wife collection is a tribute to the strength, beauty, and romance of life at sea, and the women who wait for their loved ones to return.
Zimmermann‘s collection is a blend of vintage and contemporary elements, reflecting the brand’s signature style. The designer Nicky Zimmermann has successfully created a range that appeals to both the modern and traditional tastes of her customers. The use of lace, which is the brand’s staple, is taken to new heights with intricate detailing, creating an overall romantic and feminine vibe. The prints, inspired by art movements from different eras, add depth and interest to the collection.
The collection is not just limited to special occasions, but also includes everyday pieces that can be mixed and matched to create various looks. The Zimmermann woman is confident and versatile, able to switch between different styles effortlessly. Leather pilot suits and tartan suits provide a unique contrast to the delicate lace dresses, showing the brand’s ability to cater to different fashion needs.
Overall, Zimmermann’s Lace Galore collection showcases the brand’s creativity, craftsmanship, and attention to detail. Its exquisite use of lace and prints, combined with modern twists, is a testament to the brand’s ability to reinvent itself while staying true to its roots.
Sacai’s collection, on the other hand, was a reinvention of classic styles, with Chitose Abe using great scissors to cut and reassemble typical black woolen cloths, banker’s clothes, and other gray flannel into long coats, skirts, and maxi dresses with simple, ultra-elegant lines. Abe also used a variety of materials, mixing cotton with transparent tulle in the emblematic white shirt, and using wide folds to redesign two-tone trench coats. Skirt suits were eventful in their construction, with Abe endlessly superimposing the same fabric horizontally or folding it vertically for a mille-feuille effect.
The same process was used for white blouses, which seemed to be ruffled via multiple layers. Pleated skirts, jackets, and black coats were stitched with a fine white thread as if tracing the seams of clothing with chalk, and the threads extended and floated in the air like the imperceptible fluctuating traces of an unfinished garment.