THESE INFLUENTIAL FASHION POWERHOUSES HAVE RESHAPED MENSWEAR FOR 2024 AND ACTIVELY CONTRIBUTED TO A POSITIVE NARRATIVE OF CHANGE, INCLUSION AND ADAPTABILITY IN THE EVER-EVOLVING FIELD OF FASHION.
THEIR COMBINED INFLUENCE IS SET TO PLAY A CENTRAL ROLE IN HOW MEN WILL EXPRESS THEMSELVES THROUGH THEIR STYLE IN THE YEARS TO COME.
As the curtains fell on the Paris Fashion Week menswear shows, the overarching theme of ‘quiet luxury‘ emerged, marking a departure from overt displays of wealth. The runway presentations by renowned fashion houses Loewe, Hermès, Balmain, and Valentino not only echoed this shift but also introduced dynamic trends that redefine modern menswear in 2024.
INTERPLAY OF SUBTLE AND BOLD
The runway shows displayed a tasteful blend of quiet luxury intertwined with flamboyant and experimental designs, striking a balance between subtlety and boldness. This dichotomy emphasized the diversity of modern menswear, reflecting a potential shift in fashion sensibilities that accommodates both conservative and progressive aesthetics.
DESIGNERS RESPOND TO SOCIAL INEQUALITY
Against the backdrop of rising social inequality, some designers opted for less ostentatious designs, focusing on fine materials and craftsmanship. Véronique Nichanian of Hermès, for instance, presented a textured lineup, showcasing reversible, superimposable, and transformable pieces. This trend towards understated elegance underscored a collective response to broader social consciousness.
The collection featured an interplay of historical references, with ruffled cowls and buttoned neck fastenings reminiscent of coats from a bygone era. Nichanian’s masterful layering of textures and fabrics created a rich, textural narrative, where sweaters upon shirts and coats upon coats became a celebration of warmth and sophistication. The juxtaposition of traditional Prince of Wales check suits with bursts of color, such as flashes of yellow in knit sweaters, highlighted a significant trend of merging the traditional with the unexpected, showcasing Hermès’ evolution towards intelligent modern luxury with a playful touch.
LOEWE’S DIGITAL-AGE EXPLORATION
Jonathan Anderson’s latest collection for Loewe delved into modern masculinity within our social media-saturated world. The runway, transformed by vibrant pop art, featured a diverse array of social media-inspired characters. Anderson skillfully abandoned a singular aesthetic, presenting a collage of styles that captured spontaneity and unexpected moments. This season, Loewe ventured into more provocative terrain, exploring the complexities of the digital age and reshaping modern masculinity.
BALMAIN: A RIOT OF COLORS AND BOLD GRAPHIC IMAGERY
Olivier Rousteing’s Saturday night show for Balmain was a sensory feast, capturing the exuberance of the ’80s New Romantics. Eyes and lips took center stage against a black backdrop, featuring stunning pieces like a bejeweled double-breasted coat adorned with giant eyes. Polka dots, vibrant prints, and unexpected pairings showcased Rousteing’s commitment to diversity and the brand’s evolution in pushing fashion boundaries. The collection was not merely about making a statement; it was a celebration of the house’s heritage while embracing pure, unadulterated fun. Balmain‘s riot of color blocking and vibrant prints became a defining trend, reflecting a nod to the brand’s heritage and a step towards unrestrained enjoyment in fashion.
VALENTINO: SUBDUED ELEGANCE WITH THOUGHTFUL COLOR SPLASHES
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s vision for Valentino subtlety balanced artistic expression with practicality. The initial nod to classic professionalism with black suits evolved into a nuanced exploration of formality and individuality. The strategic use of Valentino’s signature vermillion added depth, symbolizing individuality within the constraints of business. The collection maintained a subdued tone, focusing on saleable, wearable, and practical pieces that showcased the brand’s heritage of luxury tailoring. Piccioli’s approach signaled a modern reimagining of formal wear, appealing to a broad spectrum of clients and celebrating the evolution of contemporary masculinities. The juxtaposition of traditional masculine wardrobe essentials with bursts of bold colors, such as pink, blue, green, and orange, showcased Valentino’s commitment to challenging stereotypical ideals and creating a modern gentleman who subverts traditional norms.
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