VIRGINIE VIARD PRESENTS ‘LE BOUTON’ COUTURE COLLECTION CHALLENGING CONVENTION WITH ITS AVANT-GARDE DESIGNS. FAR FROM BEING BUTTONED-UP, VIARD’S CREATIONS REDEFINE ELEGANCE, BLENDING SOPHISTICATION WITH A DARING EDGE.
THE COLLECTION UNVEILS A MODERN VISION OF HAUTE COUTURE, WHERE CLASSIC CRAFTSMANSHIP MEETS CONTEMPORARY FLAIR, PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES OF TRADITIONAL LUXURY FASHION.”
Virginie Viard, the creative force behind Chanel, presents her latest haute couture collection, aptly named “Le Bouton” (The Button). Far from being conventional, the collection showcases a vibrant and youthful spirit, perfectly aligned with the preferences of a new generation of couture enthusiasts. The runway witnessed a display of tulle and transparency, offering a refreshing take on the traditional and adding a touch of daring elegance to the haute couture scene.
The opening look, flaunted by actress and Chanel ambassador Margaret Qualley, set the tone for the entire collection. Qualley donned a short, cream-white Chanel jacket with four buttons, ruffled collar reminiscent of Catherine de Medici, paired with a micro-mini skirt. The ensemble was adorned with silver-white tights, coupled with a sheer tulle mini skirt, introducing the theme of transparency that permeated throughout the show.
Viard’s vision unfolded with subsequent looks featuring an abundance of tulle. Two ultra-light, bouclé wool coat-dresses in ecru, and a Chanel jacket embellished with faux pockets, all incorporating elements of tulle, graced the runway. The eveningwear took a bold turn, with a half-transparent, silver-white gown that beautifully complemented the dark skin tone of the model, enhancing the overall effect.
The collection continued with classic summer suits in shades of rose, lemon, and violet, elevated with layers of tulle embroidered with rhinestones, pearls, and crystals. The evening ensembles embraced intricate detailing, revealing miles of legs through carefully placed cut-outs.
In a departure from the grandiosity often associated with haute couture, Chanel’s young and relaxed approach resonates perfectly with the current era. The collection is meticulously tailored for a new generation of couture clients—those with personal coaches and strict fitness regimens. Chanel’s daring exploration of shorter silhouettes marks a departure from decades of tradition, reflecting a bolder vision of haute couture.
Viard expressed her enthusiasm backstage, stating, “I wanted lots of tulle, legs, and lightness. Something summery and airy.” The choice of tulle also extended to the runway’s decor, a brilliant creation by Chanel. Within the Grand Palais Éphémère, behind the Eiffel Tower, an immense circle adorned with tulle curtains formed the exhibition space. Suspended from the ceiling, a 12-meter-wide button tilted to signal the start of the runway spectacle.
Chanel had introduced this concept two days earlier in a three-minute video titled “Le Bouton,” featuring Margaret Qualley and a cameo appearance by Naomi Campbell. Directed by Dave Free, with a soundtrack by Kendrick Lamar, the film follows a young Chanel fan’s journey to retrieve a lost button from her Chanel jacket. The narrative leads her to embark on a steam train journey to the Parisian headquarters at 31 Rue Cambon, where she encounters Coco Chanel, portrayed by Anna Mouglalis. Chanel reveals that the button was intentionally poorly sewn by her own mother—a two-generation strategy to guide the heroine to work for Coco.
In the dimly lit corridor leading to the runway, a towering spool of thread, accompanied by a giant needle and monumental scissors, symbolized the artistry of a seamstress and the skilled hands of Parisian craftsmen capable of creating true masterpieces.
Margaret Qualley returned for the finale, joined by all the models, radiating excitement and perfectly at home on the long, beige, shaggy Chanel carpet. “We adore her. She’s a fantastic actress, and before that, she was a dancer, which ties back to the other source of inspiration for this runway,” added Virginie Viard.
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