Chanel brought its Cruise 2025 collection to Lake Como this week for a quietly cinematic reveal staged at Villa d’Este. The show unfolded across the historic hotel’s sunlit terrace, framed by sculpted gardens and still water—a setting chosen for its history. A longtime symbol of Italian elegance, Villa d’Este also carries a personal thread: Gabrielle Chanel shared a close friendship with Luchino Visconti, a towering figure in postwar cinema and a frequent guest of the region. That link between fashion, film, and a certain Italian rhythm of life shaped the show’s aesthetic language.
To bring that concept to life, the fashion house invited Sofia Coppola to direct a short film ahead of the show, shot on-site. It framed the collection in quiet images: still corridors, mirrored light, evening water.
The show began with guests arriving by boat, including Keira Knightley, Caroline de Maigret, Joan Thiele, Gaia Girace, and Beatrice Grannò.
Designed by the in-house team ahead of Matthieu Blazy’s arrival, the collection featured 69 looks, focusing on proportion and restraint. Fabrics responded to light, while the styling recalled Como in the spring: precise, composed, never static.
Floral and Natural Inspiration
The collection began with soft taffeta dresses in peach, blue, and pink. Light tweed pieces followed, with sequins catching the sun without being overwhelming. The cuts were close to the body, with a flared black jumpsuit appearing mid-show. The bodice hugged the body, while the trousers gradually flared out. Ivory blouses featured rhinestone braids, and a pink lamé cape flowed behind a striped jumpsuit. Coats were straight, and sleeves held their shape.
The evening looks kept things subtle. Transparent fabrics layered over corsets, while a bustier dress ended just above the knee. Lace framed the design, adding texture without distraction. Hemlines varied, but all remained consistent. Oleander and camellia flowers were stitched into the fabric, drawing from the garden’s natural beauty. In the end, movement brought everything together.
Palette and intent
Colors drew from the villa itself. Ochre echoed sunlit walls. Pale green matched the trimmed hedges. Black grounded the palette. Pastels stayed washed, not sweet. A strawberry-red overcoat closed one sequence. Its weight held. A white wool peacoat matched sharp trousers. Navy stripes appeared on ribbed knits and tied scarves. Accessories built quietly: long gloves, silk headscarves, thick sunglasses. A pool bag in cream canvas paired with a sheer blouse. One mini cupcake handbag appeared without irony.
The styling pointed to leisure with structure. Cruise codes returned in form: relaxed, layered textiles, flat shoes. Chanel treated every look as a complete whole.
