Schiaparelli FW26/27 Couture Sculpts Silicone Into Deep Sea Couture

Faithful to its ritual, Schiaparelli inaugurated Paris Couture Week this morning at the Petit Palais. For Schiaparelli FW26/27 Couture, titled The Abyss. Creative Director Daniel Roseberry sent thirty women, dressed as creatures from the bottom of the ocean, down a mirrored runway that threw the ceiling frescoes back at the guests. Gowns glowed. Latex grew tentacles. Elsa Schiaparelli's granddaughter, Marisa Berenson, in a long black gown with a gold chain holding the train at arm's length, sat beneath The Triumph of Woman. Bad Bunny joined in a butter yellow suit and a braided gold tie, his brother Bernie Martínez Ocasio in tow, alongside Michelle Yeoh in black feathers and Anna Wintour behind her glasses.

Schiaparelli FW26/27 Couture "The Abyss"

For Schiaparelli FW26/27 Couture "The Abyss", Daniel Roseberry replaced silk, satin and wool with latex, silicone and sheets of oven baked paint, sculpted into looks the way other couturiers drape fabric. nside the bustiers, tiny lights pulse like deep sea organisms. Elsewhere, a black latex jacket trails full tentacles over second skin trousers, while a tulle gown covered in silicone dots becomes a jellyfish as it moves. But the piece to study twice is Une robe sur une robe: from the front, a bustier gown embroidered with silver thread, pearls and shells, and from the back, a white pleated crêpe gown with a lace corset drawing a face across the spine. Of course, Elsa Schiaparelli played these tricks on the eye back in the thirties. Nearly a century later, her Maison still plays them better than anyone. Yet the collection arrived after months of struggle. Following his January triumph, Roseberry spent a season chasing his own formula and caught nothing, until he let go. In his words: "Formulas are the antithesis of the magic of creation."

The Coral Gown Takes 9,850 Hours To Make

Every show has the dress. This one arrived shaped like living coral, a moulded bustier lacquered in coral silicone, covered in fine tentacles and miniature hand embroidered bouquets. More than 9,850 hours of atelier work in a single gown. Delphine Bellini, the Maison's General Director, revealed the teams had four to five months and worked side by side with engineers to perfect the silicone. The finale answered in white: a bustier finished like porcelain over a fringed skirt threaded with warm yellow light, a bride surfacing from the deep. Around the gowns came anemone brooches, sea urchin earrings, coral and gold across the bags, and the new Bubble shoe. The clients in the room were placing orders before the last look turned the corner.

Karlie Kloss Returns To The Runway Fresh From Taylor Swift's Wedding

Karlie Kloss walked her first Schiaparelli show since 2024, days after dancing at Taylor Swift and Travis Kelce's wedding at Madison Square Garden, in an ice blue sculpted bodice over shimmering embroidered lace. Amelia Gray took the pale pink lace look of the morning. Back in the front row, Emma Corrin came dressed as a bird of paradise, feathers fading from pistachio to lilac to coral with sculpted talons at the bust, while Lee Pace pinned gold bird brooches to a navy suit. Vera Wang and Law Roach sat with Anna Wintour, Christian Louboutin, Sidney Toledano and Delphine Arnault close by, and Farida Khelfa, muse of the Maison, completed the family portrait.

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