Jonny Johansson Explores Tension & Contrast in a Collection Built for Shifting Landscapes
March 5, 2025 – Paris Fashion Week- Acne Studios FW25 Women RTW
Acne Studios FW25 unfolds like a journey—one foot in the wilderness, the other in the city’s sharp pace. Set against a surreal skyline punctuated by woven sculptures, the collection reflects Jonny Johansson’s fascination with duality.
Shearling and wool dominated, their raw textures evoking the ruggedness of Sweden’s northern landscapes. A full-body mohair suit, cut with exaggerated shoulders, wrapped the body in warmth, its silhouette both protective and assertive. Another look, a floor-length faux-fur coat, blurred the line between outerwear and sculpture, shifting with movement.
Tailoring took a different approach, injecting the collection with an urban edge. Houndstooth suits expanded at the shoulders, exaggerating the frame, while sleek leather coats grounded the lineup with structure. A deep brown double-breasted jacket, cut boxy yet refined, felt like a statement on power and adaptability—one foot in corporate precision, the other in avant-garde experimentation.
Accessories pushed the collection’s contrasts further. A series of oversized bags, crafted from ostrich-embossed leather, emphasized practicality yet felt sculptural. Meanwhile, angular sunglasses reflected the city’s sleekness, reinforcing the push-pull between natural forms and manmade precision.
Paris Fashion Week- Acne Studios FW25 Women RTW
Shapes in Flux
Johansson distorts form, twisting volume and drape into shifting compositions. Layering drives the narrative—unpredictable, fluid, in constant motion. A deep plum chiffon dress, scattered with star motifs, billowed with movement. Red shearling boots anchored it, raw and bold, straddling the wild and the urban glow.
Knitwear disrupted proportions. A thick, oversized gray sweater, slashed with jagged intarsia, mirrored icy terrain. Paired with sleek leather leggings, it clashed—soft against sharp, organic against geometric. A sleeveless knit, knotted into an oversized bow, pushed winterwear into sculptural territory, reshaping expectations of warmth and form.
Outerwear embraced volume. Bomber jackets, puffed at the shoulders, reshaped classic proportions. A camel-toned coat, cut generously, looked both cocoon-like and sharply tailored. The collection shifts with movement, designed to be worn dynamically rather than statically.
Paris Fashion Week- Acne Studios FW25 Women RTW
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