“Ce Qui Se Trame“: A French-Indian Textile and Craft Exhibition Now at Mobilier National

Ce qui se trame / What’s Woven Exhibition invites you to step into a unique dialogue between India and France through the lens of textile and craft. Organized by the Mobilier National, the Exhibition highlights artistic and technical exchanges across centuries.

The project is powered by 19M, the Maison Chanel-founded craft hub, the French Embassy in India via Villa Swagatam, and overseen artistically by Christian Louboutin, who shaped the scenography and

Ce qui se trame / What’s Woven Exhibition is curated by Mayank Mansingh Kaul. Who leads you through seven distinct spaces: Antichambre, Toiles Blanches, Modes Indiennes, Le Fil d’Or, Le Chic à l’Indienne, Sculpter les Corps, and Un Langage Universel. The sections immerse you in the history and savoir-faire of French and Indian textile traditions.

1. Antichambre — Antechamber: A Journey into History

The Exhibition begins with a reconstructed 18th-century French apartment draped entirely in Indian textiles. Artisans from the House of Kandadu hand-printed and dyed the fabrics using traditional block-printing, natural pigments, and age-old techniques. Outside the apartment, nomadic-inspired structures blend with French toile de Jouy, creating an immediate cross-cultural dialogue.

2. Toiles Blanches — White Cloths: The Purity of Raw Materials

This zone focuses on foundational textiles: Indian white cotton muslins, French lace, and intricate embroidery. It highlights the cultural symbolism of white in both countries while celebrating the materials that shaped centuries of craftsmanship.

3. Modes Indiennes — Indian Fashions: The Journey of Chintz and the Birth of Indiennes

This gallery traces how hand-painted Indian cottons — palampore and chintz — travelled to Europe in the 17th century and sparked a revolution in French textile design. These fabrics inspired the creation of indiennes, influencing French interiors, fashion, and eventually giving rise to the famous paisley motif.

4. Le Fil d’Or — The Golden Thread: Silk, Metal, and the Evolution of Brocade

Here, visitors discover the dazzling world of silk brocades woven with metallic threads. The invention of the Jacquard loom in Lyon transformed European production and exerted a major influence on artisans in Varanasi. The installation places historic pieces side-by-side with contemporary woven works.

5. Le Chic à l’Indienne — Indian-Style Chic: Colour, Draping, and Reinvention

This lively section draws from sari traditions and contemporary reinterpretations. Raw Mango reimagines heritage garments while collaborating with Indian artisans. Works from The Flowers We Grew explore the dialogue between French haute couture and Indian craft.

6. Sculpter les Corps — Sculpting Bodies: Textiles as Sculpture and Statement

This zone examines how contemporary artists use textiles to discuss identity, politics, and the body. Featuring Mrinalini Mukherjee, Simone Pheulpin, Sheila Hicks, Chanakya workshops, and Jeanne Vicerial, the installations transform fabric into powerful sculptural forms.

7. Un Langage Universel — A Universal Language: Denim, Indigo, and Shared Heritage

The Exhibition concludes in a room entirely covered in denim — a textile born in 19th-century Nîmes and dyed with Indian indigo. The space underscores the enduring links between both countries. A highlight is the tapestry After Paris by Viswanadhan, created at the Gobelins, along with nods to Le Corbusier’s Chandigarh.

Ce qui se trame / What’s Woven Textile Exhibition

📅 December 4, 2024 – January 7, 2025
🌍 Mobilier National, Paris, France
🎟️ Mobilier National

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