There is a philosophy behind every great Etro collection, and Marco De Vincenzo has found his. Everything flows. Everything returns. Nothing repeats exactly. For Fall/Winter 2026-2027, presented during Milan Fashion Week, De Vincenzo built a collection around the idea of panta rei, the ancient Greek principle that everything is in perpetual motion, and made it feel like the most relevant idea in fashion right now.
The monarch butterfly hovers over the entire collection as its founding metaphor. A tireless traveler, it crosses continents carrying the memory of its migrations in its wings. Its vivid, chameleonic markings seem to inspire every finish that punctuates the silhouettes throughout Etro Fall/Winter 2026-2027.
Etro Fall/Winter 2026-2027 by Marco De Vincenzo
Two Worlds, One Wardrobe
De Vincenzo structured the collection around a dialogue between two apparently opposing souls of the Maison Etro . On one side, the formal, masculine world of British origin, the world of Etro's founder, who began his career selling men's fabric and never lost his attachment to tailoring. On the other, the free, fluid, exotic femininity that Etro built through the 1990s, defined by lightness, movement and opulence.
"These two souls are represented in this show," said De Vincenzo backstage. "And in the end, what may seem like a contrast is actually our balance."
On the runway, that balance looked extraordinary. Slim tailoring arrived with feather trim at the cuffs. Small sea dog coats sat alongside pleated skirts. Napoleonic jackets with officer epaulettes preceded caftans scattered with sequins that dissolved into feathers. A military green coat with gold buttons and leather trousers opened the show. A sequined, feathered caftan closed it. De Vincenzo described the collection as a story to be read from first look to last, and that is exactly how it rewarded attention.
Etro Goes Full Opulence, Then Grounds It
Tartan, trompe l'oeil scarf prints, medieval bestiary motifs, magnified heraldic crests and paisley moved through the collection like chapters of a single manuscript. Heraldic cords wound through knitwear. Long sequins faded into feathers. Devoré jacquard animated jersey. Gold fringe trimmed scarves tied at the hip like military sashes. Dense, glittering embroideries of fantastical animals shimmered across the surface of evening pieces.
The palette grounded the opulence in something wearable, organic neutrals, yellow, blue, and a clean, all-over black that made every embellishment land harder. Accessories told the same story. Sturdy boots and thin-heeled sandals with chunky ankle buckles anchored the daytime looks. Suede mules from a collaboration with Birkenstock brought the nomadic spirit down to earth. Softly shaped handbags, small totes and embroidered pouches completed a wardrobe built for movement, real or imagined.
A Circular Collection That Always Moves Forward
"I see a circularity in the brand and in the work I'm called upon to do," said De Vincenzo. "Taking the codes of the past, reinterpreting them, making them appear different each season." At Etro, that circularity is a strength. A heritage this strong does not constrain a Creative Director. It protects him, focuses him, and gives his work an authority that trends alone cannot manufacture.
Etro Fall/Winter 2026-2027 is a collection about sovereignty without a fixed throne. Power built not from permanence but from perpetual, gorgeous motion. The monarch butterfly always finds its way. So, it turns out, does Marco De Vincenzo.
