FROM GIORGIO ARMANI’S TIMELESS CLASS TO DHRUV KAPOOR’S COUTURE SPORTSWEAR AND J.W ANDERSON’S CINEMATIC PROWESS, MILAN’S RUNWAY ECHOES ECCENTRIC ELEGANCE
Milan’s Fashion Week for Men ended on a high note, with original proposals and quality collections. Designers Giorgio Armani, J.W. Anderson and Dhruv Kapoor brilliantly demonstrated that the new trend for understated luxury can be joyfully subverted.
GIORGIO ARMANI: A TIMELESS EVOLUTION
Giorgio Armani, with his discerning eye and iconic style, scrutinized the audience and his collection through a giant reproduction of his stern gaze. The fall-winter 2024/25 collection takes a step forward, embracing a more nonchalant attitude with lighter constructions, looser volumes, and an extended palette of infinite shades of beige, blue, and gray. Armani eliminates the conventional shirt, introducing knits, silk t-shirts, polos, and even brightly colored turtlenecks.
Suits and coats, crafted from luxurious woolens in various patterns, allow for versatile pairings. Armani breathes new life into corduroy suits and ventures into bold territory with leopard-printed ensembles. The emphasis on fluidity and comfort is evident, with jackets often collarless, loose-fitting trousers tucked into boots, or cinched at the calf resembling joggers. Armani’s vision is a masterful blend of tradition and modernity, showcasing that men’s fashion can evolve without losing its essence.
DHRUV KAPOOR: COUTURE SPORTSWEAR ELEVATION
Dhruv Kapoor, an Indian designer making waves in Milan since June 2022, navigates the fine line between sporty and couture. Kapoor’s evolution from vibrant streetwear to a more refined and sought-after aesthetic is evident in his fall-winter collection. Richly embroidered pieces, particularly stunning sequined jackets, take center stage, emphasizing a departure from Indian folklore.
Sporty elements are delicately woven into the collection, from tennis-inspired shirts with pleated skirts to rugby-inspired shoulder-broadened jackets. Kapoor even collaborates with Nike, incorporating dormant stock into four special silhouettes. The collection balances couture and sportswear, solidifying Kapoor’s position on the Milanese runway.
J.W. ANDERSON: CINEMATIC SEDUCTION
Jonathan Anderson, at J.W. Anderson, presents a collection that challenges traditional masculinity, revealing sensuality and theatricality. Models confidently parade without pants, legs clad in alluring sheer black tights with incorporated socks and oversized slipper-moccasins adorned with giant pom-poms. The collection exudes an intimate atmosphere, defining a new masculinity that appears sexier than the accompanying female silhouettes.
Inspired by Stanley Kubrick’s film “Eyes Wide Shut,” Anderson incorporates elements of domestic perversion, marked by festive red fabric flowers and second-skin, constraining tights. Protective garments, oversized blazers, and cargo pants dominate the outdoor ensemble, creating a sense of intrigue and cinematic grandeur.
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