Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2026-27 Brings Le Smoking Back to Paris

Sixty years after Yves Saint Laurent invented the most famous suit in the world, Le Smoking is back. On Tuesday night, Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello opened the Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2026-27 show at Paris Fashion Week with 14 models in powered-up tuxedo suits.

Kate Moss, Michelle Pfeiffer, Rosé, Charlotte Gainsbourg, Zoë Kravitz, Lourdes Leon, Amelia Gray, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Lila Moss, Olivia Wilde and Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu packed the front row of a modernist glass apartment in front of a light-studded Eiffel Tower.

Also in attendance were Actor Logan Lerman, Actor Mark Eydelshteyn, Actor Dominic Sessa, Actor Evan Ross, Actor Rishab Shah, Model Devon Lee Carlson, Photographer Nadia Lee Cohen and Model Manu Rios. It was Vaccarello's tenth anniversary at the Maison. And he chose to celebrate it by going back to the very beginning.

The Tuxedo That Changed Fashion Turns 60

Yves Saint Laurent created Le Smoking in 1966, originally designed for men to protect their clothing from cigar smoke before he adapted it for women, slimming the trousers and the lapels. It was a radical act. Only one sold from the original 1966 collection. And yet it became a global symbol of power dressing and gender dismantling, appearing in every Saint Laurent collection until the Couturier retired in 2002.

For Fall/Winter 2026-27, Vaccarello adapted it further still. This is not the slinky tailoring the Maison is known for. Think 1980s Wall Street, oversized shoulders, large lapels, maximal jewelry and a makeup palette straight out of Robert Palmer's Addicted to Love video. Some suits arrived in barely-there pinstripes. Others in black with the kind of commanding presence that fills a room before the wearer even speaks.

But Vaccarello has never been a one-note Designer and Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2026-27 was no exception. Hot on the heels of the power suits came a contrasting chapter of delicate lace dresses, the kind of deliberate tension between strength and fragility that has defined his decade at the Maison. The coat section doubled down on volume with enormous knitted shearling jackets worn over sky-high heels, a reminder that at Saint Laurent, even excess has a point of view.

Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2026-27 by Anthony Vaccarello- Paris Fashion Week

Anthony Vaccarello's Decade at Saint Laurent

Leading the Maison since 2016, Vaccarello has spent ten years building on Yves Saint Laurent's legacy without being consumed by it. And the Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2026-27 collection feels like a deliberate statement of that relationship. The oversized replica of a bust that Saint Laurent kept in his own home sat watching over the show like a silent co-sign. Vaccarello knows exactly which codes he is working with. And after ten years, he wears them as naturally as a well-cut tuxedo.