Gold has long fascinated humanity. A symbol of power, divinity, and refinement, it has shaped cultures across continents. Now, the Musée du Quai Branly invites you on a dazzling journey with Au fil de l’or, l’art de se vêtir de l’Orient au Soleil-Levant – “In the Thread of Gold: The Art of Dressing from the Orient to the Land of the Rising Sun.“. Running from February 11 to July 6, 2025, this exhibition explores gold’s role in textiles. It traces its use from the Maghreb to Japan.
For nearly 7,000 years, artisans have intertwined gold with fabrics, creating garments fit for royalty. From the caftans of North Africa to China’s shimmering silks, gold has been a statement of status and tradition. “Au fil de l’or, l’art de se vêtir de l’Orient au Soleil-Levant” exhibition traces this evolution, revealing techniques that transformed raw metal into threads of luxury.
Curator Hana Al Banna-Chidiac explains why these regions were chosen: “This is where the art of integrating gold into textiles was born and where it continues to thrive.” Unlike African and American textiles, which relied on beads, dyes, and embroidery, these cultures perfected the use of gold in clothing.
A Journey Through Five Worlds
“Au fil de l’or, l’art de se vêtir de l’Orient au Soleil-Levant” exhibition unfolds across five geographical sections, each showcasing the mastery of gold in fashion. You can begin in the Maghreb, where caftans, tunics, and embroidered vests set the stage for a world of splendor. The route then leads through the Middle East, with richly adorned robes from Egypt, Turkey, and Iran.
Further along, India’s influence emerges in the Arabian Peninsula’s garments. Intricate gold threadwork connects Middle Eastern and South Asian styles. The fourth section highlights the art of draping. It features Indian saris and Southeast Asian songkets, gold-threaded textiles worn in ceremonies in Malaysia and Indonesia.
Finally, you arrive in East Asia, where Chinese silk robes and Japanese kimonos showcase centuries of savoir-faire. The exhibition culminates in a special focus on French embroidery, particularly the Maison Lesage, known for its mastery of gold embellishment.
A Spotlight on Guo Pei’s Gold-Infused Designs
The Musée du Quai Branly exhibition Au fil de l’or, l’art de se vêtir de l’Orient au Soleil-Levant highlights Guo Pei’s designs, bringing a contemporary perspective to its historical narrative. China’s most celebrated couturier, Guo Pei is renowned for her opulent, gold-infused creations, including Rihanna’s dramatic yellow gown at the 2015 Met Gala. “She has an incredible relationship with gold thread,” says Al Banna-Chidiac. Fourteen of her pieces are featured, bridging past and present through their intricate craftsmanship.
Gold’s Illusions
The exhibition also explores materials that mimic gold’s brilliance. Three standout discoveries—Madagascar spider silk, Cambodian golden silk, and marine silk—demonstrate how nature itself has inspired textile innovations.
The Musée du Quai Branly exhibition Au fil de l’or tells the story of gold’s enduring allure, tracing its role in wealth, trade, and craftsmanship. It reveals how civilizations have used this celestial metal to shape identity and status. From ancient robes to haute couture, gold remains a symbol of beauty and power.
